Twenty-one years ago, Denver Post restaurant critic Kyle Wagner declared Victor Matthews “the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi of Colorado dining” after several undercover visits to his unassuming Black Bear Restaurant in Green Mountain Falls.

Wagner’s glowing review put Matthews on Colorado’s destination-dining map, but few could have predicted the career that would follow, marked by triumphs, setbacks and reinvention.

Today, Matthews is back where he belongs — behind the stove, cooking, creating and leading a kitchen of talented young chefs.

The acclaimed chef oversees the culinary program at Tava House, 120 S. Center St. in Woodland Park, where Firebrand Steakhouse and the recently opened Bar Above the Clouds have quickly generated buzz.

As co-founder, chief operating officer and master chef, Matthews develops the menus, hires and directs the kitchen staff, and shapes the dining experience across the property’s expanding collection of venues, including The Taproom, the River Room event space, Firebrand Steakhouse and Bar Above the Clouds.

After a recent dinner at Firebrand, it’s easy to see that Matthews has rekindled the culinary magic that once made Black Bear Restaurant a destination worth the drive up Ute Pass.

His kitchen and front-of-house staff are filled largely with graduates and students from his Paragon Culinary School.

“They are great, and I can trust them to do dishes and service the way I want,” Matthews said.

We chose the five-course “Exploring the World of Tava” tasting menu ($75, with optional $35 wine pairings). The evening began with an ever-changing amuse-bouche of inari sushi.

“I change it every single night,” Matthews said. “Inari is a fried and marinated tofu skin. I top it with kombu-aged red vinegar, Koshihikari rice and wasabi furikake.”

Next came Matthews’ legendary Mushroom Cappuccino, a velvety mushroom reduction topped with a cloud of cream that remains every bit as memorable as it was at Black Bear. Equally impressive was the colorful Spicy Thai Fruit Salad dressed with a citrus-chile vinaigrette and toasted rice streusel.

The meal concluded with locally sourced striped bass, a tender USDA Prime filet (or Snake River Wagyu for a $40 upgrade) and a quartet of desserts created by executive pastry chef Rhianna Matthews, including Victor’s famous bread pudding.

Firebrand Steakhouse serves dinner 5-9 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Details: 719-428-5352, tavahouse.com

Farm-to-table evening
Smokebrush Foundation invites diners to celebrate the season at its Summer Harvest Dinner from 5-8 p.m. July 16 at the historic Rockledge House, 328 El Paso Blvd. in Manitou Springs.

The gluten-free menu features house-made enchiladas with seasonal salad, beans and rice prepared with ingredients grown at Smokebrush Farm, followed by dessert. Live music will accompany the evening.

Guests also can take a guided tour of Smokebrush Farm 30 minutes before dinner begins. Boots are recommended for the walk through the fields.

Dinner is $25 for adults and $15 for children ages 12 and younger.
Proceeds support Smokebrush Foundation’s educational and community programs. Tickets are available at tinyurl.com/4b3849j7.