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Wine Guy: Sparkling wine not just for special occasions

Sparkling wine is the obvious choice for special occasions but it also can be enjoyed any time. Here, I have several options for you.

But first a really, really special Champagne: the 2018 Champagne Christophe Baron “Les Closeaux” ($240, magnum). With 100% organically grown pinot meunier from a (100-year-old) single vineyard, it is a rare Champagne. Baron is the proprietor of Cayuse, the highly praised Washington state winery. But his family heritage in Champagne dates to 1677. This wine sparkles with apple, mixed citrus and pear given complexity with notes of baked bread, chalky minerality and warm spice delivered with brisk acidity while broadly textured.

Arguably the best value in Champagne (traditional) method bubbly is Spanish Cava, primarily from Catalonia with native macabeo, xarel-lo and parellada grapes. Try Los Dos Brut ($13) for fresh, fruity green apple, pear, and soft bubbles.

I especially like Crémant d’Alsace, also traditional method and usually made with pinot noir or chardonnay. And occasionally with pinot blanc and pinot gris like the Ruhlmann “Jean Charles” Brut ($26), which shines with green-apple and a yeasty note.

Prosecco, made in northeastern Italy with the native glera grape using the Charmat (tank) method, has surpassed cava in popularity in recent years with its fruity freshness and foamy effervescence. The “Marca Oro” Brut ($16) and “Marca Oro” Rosé ($16) from Valdo are fine examples why. The 2021 FIOL Rosé ($22) is sleek, elegant, accenting apple and pear with red berries.

One of its finest producers is Adami. Its 2021 Col Fondo ($20) is unique in that it is traditional method, aged on the lees and bone dry. It shows stone fruit and brioche with more body and richness. 2022 Vigneto Giardino ($26), the first single-vineyard prosecco, offers a vibrant basket of fruit and dry but rich texture.

Lambrusco (the grape and the wine) from Emilia-Romagna has gained attention recently as artisan producers like Cleto Chiarli offer mostly dry, often estate-grown, distinctive bottlings.

• Centenario “Amabile” ($15), succulent, semi-sweet, red fruits.

• Vecchia Modena “Nero Noir” ($18), single vineyard, dry, dark forest fruits, rich, full.

• Vecchia Modena “Premium” ($18), dry rosé, lightly fizzy.

• Lambrusco del Fondatore ($21), dry, earthy red fruits, creamy texture.

Finally, an impressive variety from California:

• Pine Ridge Sparkling Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($25), Charmat method, bright, aromatic version of their popular table wine; pear, green apple, honeydew, nectarine, apricot.

• 2020 Valdemar Estates Sparkling Chardonnay Brut Columbia Valley ($65), respected Spanish producer, Champagne method, very dry, brisk lemon, pear, toasty apple.

2020 Halter Ranch “Libelle” Paso Robles ($85). certified organic picpoul blanc, a white rhône grape that, rendered with the Champagne Method, results in crisp citrus, tropical and creamy notes

Note: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise stated.

Bottles of champagne are seen on display at the Healthabit Natural Foods and Wine store in Goldsboro, N.C. on Tuesday, Dec. 30, 2008. (AP Photo/The Goldsboro News-Argus, Greg Sousa)** MANDATORY CREDIT ** (Greg Sousa)
Bottles of champagne are seen on display at the Healthabit Natural Foods and Wine store in Goldsboro, N.C. on Tuesday, Dec. 30, 2008. (AP Photo/The Goldsboro News-Argus, Greg Sousa)** MANDATORY CREDIT ** (Greg Sousa)


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