Dining review: Modern Market offers no-fuss meals made from whole foods
About a year ago I had breakfast at a restaurant in Denver called Mod Market. As I devoured a hearty plate of tofu scramble I couldn’t help but think, “Why can’t we have something like this in Colorado Springs?”
Well now we do. Modern Market – as it’s now known -is open for business at The Promenade Shops at Briargate and the plant-based options are praiseworthy.
A new corner restaurant in the lively shopping center, Modern Market’s big windows make for a bright open space filled with metal and rustic wood tables and chairs. Art on the walls reflects the restaurant’s ethos with messages such as “Eat Real Food” and “Local Greens for your Salad” and a Michael Pollan quote – “Eat Food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” – is front and center on the exposed kitchen hood. This fast-ish food joint – offering dishes made from whole foods – is no fuss. Simply stand in line to place an order, seat yourself, and anxiously await the buzz of the pager when the food is ready.
Let’s start with the quintessential vegan breakfast: tofu scramble.
Modern Market’s Southwest tofu ($7.17) is plant-based when you request vegan cheese. The trick to making tasty tofu is the seasoning and this breakfast plate is spiced just right. Both the tofu – filled with roasted corn and black beans – and the abundant serving of roasted potatoes are prepared with paprika, chili powder and garlic. The scramble came smothered in vegan cheese and with a side of whole grain toast. Next time I’ll request a lighter hand on the dairy alternative. A big scoop of creamy avocado rounds out the colorful, satisfying dish. Wash down this hearty breakfast with a big glass of orange juice ($2.25), a fermented Kombucha ($4.50), or opt for the Brewmosa ($3.99). I confess that I tried the orange juice and beer brunch cocktail and I’m now a fan.
Moving on from breakfast, the items on the flip side of the menu are available for lunch and dinner and there are plenty of choices for plant eaters. If the idea of eating vegan is new to you, here are the basic food groups: vegetables, fruit, legumes and beans, grains, and nuts and seeds. Modern Market accommodates all well. The curry yellow split pea soup ($3.99) packs 10 grams of protein. Curry is often assumed to be hot; it’s actually a mix of spices and heat levels can vary. This particular take offers a sweet, fragrant buttery broth when combined with coconut milk for a rich bowl of soup. For a fresh, crisp alternative, try the superfood salad ($8.49) – hold the cheese – with dark, leafy greens and dense nutrients: quinoa (this seed, often mistaken as a grain, is considered an honorary legume due to the protein and lysine content), almonds and colorful grapes and carrots. When ordering this salad as a full meal, consider adding avocado for a good-fat fruit substitute for the cheese.
Tofu is not only a breakfast darling at Modern Market; the sesame tofu ($8) is the one and only vegan homestyle plate option. Sliced thin, sesame seeds make for a light crust to the chewy meat alternative. The entrée plates come with two sides and several are vegan. Order the mashed rosemary sweet potatoes for beta-carotene and an earthy pine flavor to contrast the lemony tofu. Arugula (hold the cheese) with red onion or fresh fruit adds a raw element to balance out the meal.
If all of this sounds way too healthy for your liking (is that a thing?), opt for the crimini kale pizza ($5 and $7.99). Vegan as is, surprise, it’s a healthful option, too. The brick oven-baked whole grain dough is crisp and airy to the bite. Simply prepared with an organic red sauce, the flavor in each bite can be attributed to the roasted mushrooms and kale (umami!).
In addition to juice, Kombucha, organic coffee ($1.75), tea ($2-$2.25) and Boylan’s soda ($2.25), wine is available by the glass ($2.99 $4.99) and bottle ($11.99-$19.99), as are Colorado craft drafts ($3.99) by Avery and Great Divide.
While plant-friendly, make no mistake: Modern Market is not a vegan or vegetarian restaurant. But culinary care is given to the plant-based options, making this an ideal dining spot for mixed (“multivore”) dining companions. Tip: To avoid long lines, take advantage of online ordering (you can filter the menu by vegan options on the website!) and pick up a healthy dinner to enjoy at home.
–
Do you have a favorite local restaurant that serves vegan options? Share it with JL:
jl.fields@gazette.com
MOD Market “Superfood Salad” – Tofu, avocado, spinach kale blend, quinoa pilaf, grape, feta, carrot, almond, champagne vinaigrette, no feta cheese Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Superfood Salad and Beermosa” – Tofu, avocado, spinach kale blend, quinoa pilaf, grape, feta, carrot, almond, champagne vinaigrette, no feta cheese Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Crimini Kale” – Roasted crimini mushrooms, kale, red onion, organic red sauce on whole grain dough Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Superfood Salad” – Tofu, avocado, spinach kale blend, quinoa pilaf, grape, feta, carrot, almond, champagne vinaigrette, no feta cheese Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Superfood Salad” – Tofu, avocado, spinach kale blend, quinoa pilaf, grape, feta, carrot, almond, champagne vinaigrette, no feta cheese Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Superfood Salad and Crimini Kale” – Roasted crimini mushrooms, kale, red onion, organic red sauce on whole grain dough Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney. .
MOD Market Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Crimini Kale” – Roasted crimini mushrooms, kale, red onion, organic red sauce on whole grain dough Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Superfood Salad” – Tofu, avocado, spinach kale blend, quinoa pilaf, grape, feta, carrot, almond, champagne vinaigrette, no feta cheese Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Superfood Salad” – Tofu, avocado, spinach kale blend, quinoa pilaf, grape, feta, carrot, almond, champagne vinaigrette, no feta cheese Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Beermosa” – Beer and Orange Juice Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
MOD Market “Superfood Salad and Crimini Kale” – Roasted crimini mushrooms, kale, red onion, organic red sauce on whole grain dough Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney. .
MOD Market “Crimini Kale” – Roasted crimini mushrooms, kale, red onion, organic red sauce on whole grain dough Thursday March 17, 2016. Photo by Jeff Kearney.