My latest adventure began with a gorgeous half-day drive from the Pikes Peak Region to Pagosa Springs, Colorado. In late June, I was treated to a 2-night, all-inclusive stay at The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs (pagosahotsprings.com), a truly upscale piece of heaven. It lies adjacent to the San Juan River, and the centerpiece is over 50 steaming geothermal pools.

The drive to Pagosa Springs is a delight, and sets the tone for a visit. Traveling through the canyons along the Arkansas River west of Cañon City, and over Wolf Creek Pass is simply breathtaking. On the way into town I stopped to make the short hike up to the ever-popular, tumbling Treasure Falls.

Early on, Native Americans understood the therapeutic value and curative powers of the hot springs. In 1881 the first commercial bathhouse was built in Pagosa Springs, leading the way to the area developing as a popular tourist destination. Rail travel reached town in 1900, and in 1916 a road was built over Wolf Creek Pass, prefacing the era of the American road trip.

In 2025, The Springs Resort was named #1 Best Hot Springs and #1 Best Spa Resort by USA Today, and is the winner of multiple other awards that recognize its excellence as a luxury spa-centric retreat. A stay here or day pass is all about renewal, relaxation and rejuvenation. The aquamarine-colored Mother Spring is recognized as the world’s deepest geothermal spring, with temperatures ranging from 138-144 degrees. It is the source of water for all the onsite geothermal pools.

There are 4 resort buildings located on the property. The 1950s Classic Western Motor Lodge has a vintage vibe. The Deluxe Accommodations were added in the 1990s. The Lodge Rooms and Suites Building, built in the early 2000s, has the historic feel of a deluxe national park lodge. The sleek and contemporary Main Rooms and Suites Building, completed in 2025, is the site of additional luxe guest rooms, and the outstanding wellness spa.

Sharon Holtz, VP of wellness, gave me a tour of the grounds, a glimpse into the history of Pagosa Springs and an overview of the Wellness Experience and Summer Renewal Program. There are so many activities and experiences to choose from that it can feel daunting. Holtz explained that people relax in different ways, emphasizing the importance of engaging in what speaks to you and feels right. This can range from simply soaking in the variety of pools, to engaging in multiple activities, indulging in a spa treatment or two, or finding a happy medium. The point is to relax and unwind, while being as spontaneous as you choose.

Getting in touch with your senses is part of the journey. The first thing you notice when approaching the labyrinth of pools is the strong sulphur smell. I came to associate it with serenity. Just the sight of the pools among the rolling terraces induces a unique sense of relaxation. As you experience the deliciousness of submerging in the waters that feels like a warm hug, you become aware of the symphony of birdsong, the harmony of the gentle flowing river waters, children’s laughter, and quiet conversation.

The Springs Wellness Experience invites you to explore, restore, and connect. You can immerse yourself in classes and activities that go beyond soaking in the pools. I engaged in a range of experiences for my perfect renewal day: guided breath work, aqua sound bathing, a gratitude ceremony, Mother’s Mud treatment, and aqua yoga. The icing on the cake was an aqua massage: a relaxing, whole-body treatment performed as your body is suspended in a warm, private pool. Heaven!

I strolled along the paved San Juan Riverwalk which traverses the waterway, and provides access to downtown Pagosa Springs. Exploring the charming boutiques, antique stores and eating establishments is a pleasant way to get to know this great little mountain town.

Dining opportunities in Pagosa Springs are a step above typical tourist fare. Dinner at Wild Finch Restaurant, a contemporary gathering spot onsite at the Springs Resort, is a must. I feasted on roasted duck breast and couldn’t resist dessert of creme brûlée with berries.

There is so much to do in and around Pagosa Springs. Popular activities include hiking, fishing, all kinds of river sports, and scenic drives. If you are looking for an immersive and restorative reset, framed in bluebird skies as you “take the waters”, the place to go is Pagosa Springs. This is just one more Colorado gem that is waiting to be explored and enjoyed!